Tuesday, 30 June 2020

A Tale of Two Treebeards

Finecast or Metal? Contrast or regular paint? These are two discussions that crop up constantly within the community and likely will do for some time. It just so happens that two of us from the Drawn Combat team got hold of the same miniature around the same time, but in different materials. I myself managed to get hold of the original metal kit of Treebeard, whereas Dan picked up the (currently sold by GW) Finecast sculpt. At this point we decided we'd have a look at two of the larger debates when it comes to ME:SBG miniatures at the moment, comparing the different materials and different methods of painting available!



Dan: Sadly for me, I drew the short straw and had the Finecast Treebeard to assemble. At first this wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, with surprisingly little flash to clean up. The model even went together fairly well, except for a big gap where the right leg met the body (the foot also has to sit in the base so I couldn't just reposition the leg). It did take a while to twist the leg into alignment using the old hot-water trick, but once it went in it was very snug. The whole model ended up requiring no green stuff at all! Success!

Obviously I was feeling pretty smug at this point, so that's when Karma took a sharp look in my direction in the form of Merry and Pippin. Merry was fine, he just perched on his branch no trouble. Pippin on the other hand was an absolute pain. I couldn't get him to sit flush on the branch for a start, and not only that, but I couldn't physically get him into the gap because his foot was in the way. Sadly for the already diminutive hobbit he had to have most of his lower leg chopped off and his foot reattached at the knee. Both hobbits were also very flash-y, especially under the cloaks. Overall I have had far worse experiences with Finecast but it still wasn't great.

Finally, and I am sure Steve will talk about this too, there is the issue of Treebeard being somewhat lacking in the height department. As he is being added to my Ent army, the height discrepancy was just ridiculous, especially as he will almost always be the leader (as he is a Hero of Legend).

He's so little!
I had to do something about it so after a bit of thought I went with a bunch of spare bases that I chopped up. I went with two layers in the end, and even then he is little, but the base was starting to look more like a plinth than a base so I just went with it.

Still small but the best I can do.
Remember how smug I was about using no green stuff just a paragraph ago? Well here comes Karma again. I ended up having to use a tonne of it to cover the little steps I had made. Overall it worked out fine in the end, though I do wish the model itself was bigger!


Steve: I'm not going to lie, I felt really chuffed when I got hold of the original Treebeard kit. It was a model I wanted so much when I was younger and now being an adult who will happily chuck money at Lord of the Rings models I managed to snag one (unused, I might add) off of one of the trade groups. The first thing you notice about the kit, is the sheer weight of it. Seriously, this is one massive hunk of metal and it will happily break your toe if you drop it. Two big concerns I had going in to the build were the weight for one (keeping everything fixed in place) and the potential level of reshaping to made parts fit snuggly. Flash-wise similar to Dan's was not much of an issue, although as with any metal model there's always a noodle bit of flash you didn't realise was there until you've painted the model!

Onto the first issue: weight. In order to get this model assembled to the point where it wouldn't fall apart with a small tap I was going to have to pin the parts together - mainly the arms and legs. Pinning (for the uninitiated) is a good old technique involving drilling a small hole in each of the parts you want to attach, and inserting a small metal rod (this can easily be part of a paper clip) to add extra support to the joint and to take some of the weight off of the glue. When attaching to the base however, I decided I'd forgo pinning here and instead use a combination of baking powder and superglue. The two when combined make a ridiculously strong bond and helped in securing the whole model to its metal base. 
Pinning in action.


When Dan showed me a comparison of Treebeard to the other Ents, the scale didn't match up so I shamelessly borrowed his idea and gave him a lift off the base to help him with the towering presence he should have. For this I took the base, and added the lid from an old tester pot of paint back from when I decorated my house to give another centimetre of height, then building around the edges with Green Stuff to smooth it all out (admittedly, I did this after I painted most of the model!).


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Dan: I am not really a painter. I don't particularly enjoy it and I am often unwilling to spend money on the 15 different shades of brown that a lot of painting guides suggest. When Contrast Paints were released it was like they were made for me. Paint and Shade mixed into one? Yes please! They have become my go-to paints, and though they aren't suitable for everything they are often 'good enough' which is my M.O. for painting. So with Treebeard I knew he was going to get Contrasted to death. I went with a basecoat of Wyldwood, which ended up being surprisingly difficult. Considering how thin Contrast is it left a load of white spots in the recesses of all the bark. I hate to say it but I think the model might just be a bit too detailed! It was a massive pain as I kept finding white spots every time I picked it up. I eventually got them all but it was still annoying. I finished off with a dry-brush of Mournfang Brown and Baneblade Brown. That'll do pig.

Merry and Pippin, on the other hand, were a joy to paint. Contrast works best for cloth and they are all cloth. I think they turned out really well, especially as they are all Contrast and nothing else. Told you I wasn't a painter!


Steve: Compared to Dan, I find a great amount of joy in painting - it's one of my favourite parts of the hobby. That being said - I'm not amazing, but decided to go with more traditional methods of tackling Treebeard and the Hobbits. He started off primed with Abaddon Black to then be base coated in Rhinox Hide all over (my general go-to dark brown). My aim was to build him up from there in gradual, increasingly light dry-brush coats, with a little Nuln Oil thrown in after the first. this started with Sylvaneth Bark moving on to Terminatus Stone and finally an extremely light coating of Wrack White (all dry paints) on the small highlights I wanted to pick out. This whole process was actually remarkably quick (not as quick as coating the whole model in contrast, mind you) but the sculpt of the bark really lends itself to dry-brushing and every accent shows for it meaning that detail could be achieved for minimal effort. 

I then worked into a bit more detail, adding dabs of Castellan Green to the areas of moss, leaves and patches of the beard (of which I largely left up to a healthy wash coating of Creed Camo), finally highlighting with a small drybrush of Nurgling Green. 

A similar approach was used for Merry and Pippin (base, wash, dry-brush) only with the small addition of contrast for the flesh and hair - I'm still not confident with painting flesh so this makes for a nice alternative with good results.

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Dan: For basing I first covered the mound in Brown Battleground from Army Painter. I also added some spare branches that I had leftover from my other Ents to make it look less like he was just stood on a lump.



To finish the model, and to make him fit with the rest of the army, I decided to give Treebeard some proper foliage. I did this by teasing out poly fiber until it was thin and hooking it over his branches. I then used some spray adhesive and sprinkled over coarse turf so that it stuck to the poly fiber. After two applications of this I sprinkled on some leaves to finish. I also stuck some of the coarse turf to Treebeard himself to look like moss. I repeated the whole process with two of the larger branches on the base. Finally I finished the base itself with a mix of two different colours of coarse turf, static grass and leaves.





I finished with some flowers to break up the green a bit. I wish I had cut the tufts up to be smaller but tearing them off now would cause too much damage.



Steve: To start off with like Treebeard the whole base got a healthy coat of Rhinox Hide as a base. From here I started to attach clumps of Tree Bush from Green Stuff World to both the base and certain parts of Treebeard in order to achieve the beginnings of a mossy look as per Fangorn, with a few grass tufts thrown in to break it up a little bit. The main problem I found with this when applying however is that the colour is very flat - it doesn't show the texture off well enough so this was given a once over with Nurgling Green to add a touch of highlight and make it look a little more natural.

The base is looking a bit too bright for my liking!

Just having the gras tufts wasn't enough to break it up however, so out came the Stirland Mud to add a bit more of an earth tone to the top of the base whilst also removing some of the Tree Bush. Finally I had some more Green Stuff World shrubberies to use, so added a couple of clumps around just help elevate the base and make the model flow a bit better from base to head. This was achieved by drilling a few small holes in the softer Green Stuff part of the base and inserting the stalks of the shrubs. 




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Dan: Overall I am really happy with how Treebeard turned out. As I said above, I am not a painter but I think the foliage distracts from the simplistic paint job. I ended up being glad that he is the Finecast version as the base adds a lot of heft to the model so if he was metal he would be very chunky indeed!

The finished article - Dan
Steve: Given it's my first large miniature I've tackled in a while I'm pretty darn pleased with the outcome. I really do love dry-brushing, and this model was absolutely perfect for picking up the ridges and contours of the bark by doing so. The model is however extremely heavy (especially with my additions to the base) and if it falls over on the table for whatever reason, something other than Treebeard is likely to break. Personally I've found that metal feels a lot better when I dry-brush - the texture just seems to pop out that little bit more when applying. Admittedly, the Finecast version would have been much more easy to assemble, but if you're someone like me who enjoys assembling a kit even with all the extra steps, it's worth it if you can get hold of it.

The finished article - Steve
So what are your thoughts on the big material debate? Are there any parts of either that make you yell out in pain or jubilation? We'd love to hear your thoughts and if you have any questions about the materials/methods we've used just drop us a comment!

Bonus picture with the rest of the Ents. Yes that is Quickbeam who is doing the running-man.

Monday, 29 June 2020

Pushing the Odds

Recently, we took a look at various probabilities relating to SBG that were key for every player to have in their back pocket for decision making in a game (you can find that here). Since then we've worked away on some examples that are a little bit more complicated to build towards a fuller picture, which we will continue to expand upon in the future. For now, keep reading to discover the impacts of two-handing your weapons in combats and what you should consider when resisting spells!

-1 to Duel Rolls

A common piece of feedback we got after the last odds article was that people were interested in what happens if a combatant had -1 to their duel rolls for situations such as using a two-handed weapon or being unarmed, so we've prepared the same tables for a combatant at -1 vs an opponent with no modifications to their dice. The top row shows the number dice you're rolling at -1 for various numbers of opponent's dice and is considered for when you are higher, lower, or equal fight.


As you can see, a -1 modifier to your duel rolls really hinders your ability to win combats. How could you alleviate these odds? Let's look at the example of a goblin with two-handed axe fighting a warrior of Minas Tirith to find out. The below table shows what happens if multiple goblins team up against the MT warrior and only one of them chooses to use their two-handed axe e.g. the 4v1 scenario considers one goblin with two-handed axe and three with one-handed weapon taking on the single die of the outnumbered Gondorian.


The Goblins are lower fight so have to have three in the fight to have better odds than a mere coin flip to win the combat and even more before they can be reasonably confident of victory. Once the mange to outnumber the MT warrior enough to feel confident in two-handing their weapons they stand a much better chance of chipping through his high defence.

Resisting Spells

When a wizard casts a spell targeting a warrior they have no choice but to sit there and take it, but heroes will often have a store of Will they can use to try and resist, but it can often be hard to know whether to spend that Will or save it for later. The below table shows your odds for resisting a spell for a given casting value and number of dice thrown to try and resist.



If you have a single point of Will and the enemy casts their spell on a 6 the chances of actually stopping it are slim enough that you may be better off saving your Will unless it's absolutely key that you stop it e.g. you've set up a brilliant heroic combat and you need to avoid being immobilised, or your General needs to dodge a Black Dart to avoid giving up VPs, but it's often not clear cut. Let's take a deep dive into one of the trickier examples, whether or not you should try and resist Sap Will.

Sap Will will cause your hero to lose D3 Will points and there are certain situations where it's obvious to know what to do e.g when you have a single Will point you might as well throw it to try and resist in the hope you get a six and keep it as in every other scenario it's going away, but what do you do if you have three Will and your opponent casts Sap Will on three dice? Are you more likely to lose more Will by trying to resist it or by just letting it go off? Let's look at the possibilities for when your opponent has cast Sap Will on a 6.


The percentages show your chance of losing a given number of will (the top row) for a set number of dice used to resist (the left column). Will lost can include that spent on unsuccessfully resisting, which is why you can lose more than three. As you can see, when cast on six you are much more likely to just make the effects of the spell worse if you try and resist! You can see similar breakdowns to above for different cast values here, but the general gist is that resisting on a single die is only really plausible on a cast value of three (as you might expect). The tables in the link will inform your odds for throwing more resist dice and controlling how many Will you have left, although the situations where heroes will care about this are niche e.g. you want a Will point on Floi Stonehand to use his ability in the upcoming turn. Niche as they are they will still be useful to have in your back pocket!

That's all for now, but odds discussion will return in the future.Let us know if there's something you want us to delve into and we'll have a go (as long as the maths isn't too hard . . . )


A Noob's Perspective: Goblin-Town

There are many reasons that might draw a player to Goblin-town, but the best one is definitely their catchy theme song. If you need a more game-centric reason read on!

One of the main draws for me was that, while it's not the cheapest army in SBG, it is probably the cheapest horde army. The heroes and basic troop types all have plastic kits and sum up to a lot less than buying metal hobbits (as an example) for an equivalent sized army. They also seemed relatively easy to paint. In fact, I got this lot done in just under a week!



There are also some fun shenanigans available to them, but to talk about that we'll need to get into some details. Without further ado it's time to go down down down to Goblin-town.

Goblin Warriors


These guys will be the bulk of any Goblin-town force and at first glance they appear . . . terrible. Fight 2 is below most troops you'd expect to see across the board and with only S3 and D3 they'll struggle to either survive or kill anything (if they can even get to the fight with their 5" move). They do however have two things that make up for this; they're a super cheap 4pts each and their Chittering Hordes special rule. Chittering Hordes allows you to truly swarm your enemy and use a weight of numbers to rack up kills and use number of attacks to outweigh your opponents fight value. They have the option of taking a two handed axe, but I'm not sure on the value of this versus just taking more goblins.

Goblin Mercenaries

The mercenary goblins cost a single point more than their warrior compatriots for which they gain an extra point of defence, which isn't great, but they also gain the Mercenary Ambush special rule. They only get to use this when led by a Mercenary Captain so I'll discuss this further at their entry, except to note that the use of this rule is where they really shine and I don't think I'd take them otherwise.


The Goblin King

Onto the heroes and we start with the biggest boy in town and one that I think goes in every Goblin-town list unless you have a very good reason. Stats wise he's super solid with Fight 6 and three attacks so he's up there with most of the best heroes in the game. He has Strength 5 and a two handed pick (with burly) so he can dish out the hurt and because of his Blubbery Mass special rule can really shrug off a lot of damage (using this in conjunction with Fate and Might points he should be very survivable). Resistant to Magic is also great to have as he is probably the key piece of your army, so avoiding compels and immobilises is very important. He has the monster keyword so can use Brutal Power Attacks, adding some utility to how he can fight.

One of the things I'm looking forward to most is using his Goblin Projectile. By flinging a goblin up to 12" he can deal a Strength 8 hit to a model on a 5+, but perhaps more importantly, automatically knock them prone. Your opponent has a Ringwraith on a Fellbeast? The King will be raining goblins down on them until he gets unseated and the Fellbeast flies home to Mordor.

The next rule to discuss is arguably his most powerful, Relentless Advance, which allows him to move through Goblins in his way when charging. It means there is no hiding from him and that if a goblin ties up a hero in combat the King can still swing in for the kill. This is even more powerful when he's paired with the next hero on our list, Gollum.


Gollum

Stats-wise Gollum is probably the fightiest hero in your army other than the King himself, but that isn't saying much. Where he really shines is his ability to equip the One Ring. When Gollum is wearing the Ring he halves enemy fight values and can move through troops as if they weren't there. This allows him to hang around the back of you army and then dive into a fight after the King and allows his F6 to be the highest in the fight no matter who he's against (unless there's a bat swarm hanging about . . .). This turns the King and Gollum combo into one of the most effective assassins in the game.

Grinnah

Grinnah has 3 Might and reasonable stats, but when compared to a regular captain he doesn't have Heroic March a very important Heroic Action in an army with move 5". He makes up for it with his Swap With Me special rule that allows him to pull the Goblin King out of a deadly situation and keep him alive for VPs and later fights.

The Goblin Scribe

The Scribe is an interesting one and I find myself unsure on if he's worth it. He's quite expensive for a minor hero, but it's because his ability allows him to move Goblin Warriors on from a board edge at an average of 2 or so per turn. This ability seems quite powerful as it allows otherwise slow Goblins to appear on the other side of the table near objectives etc and can potentially set up some small flanking moves. He does require looking after though and seems an obvious target in missions such as Assassination and Fog of War. The Goblins also have to deployed carefully as if isolated they can be quickly cut down and bring about the breaking of your army faster than desired. There's also slightly less flexibility in how he can be used compared to Goblin Mercenaries which can also ambush from a piece of terrain and have the hero with them for Stand Fast and Heroic Moves etc. I think he will require experimentation, but I've put him into at least some of my lists and think he can be a strong piece.

Goblin Captain

You'll doubtlessly have loads of these guys in your army just so you have enough warbands to meet the points limit. They have Heroic March and are 35pts. What's not to like? Having such cheap and plentiful captains means that you will often outnumber your opponent in terms of Might points, which can absolutely be a game clincher.

Goblin Mercenary Captain

I won't discuss this guys stats as it's all about the ambush rule mentioned earlier. It allows them to appear late in the game from a board edge or piece of terrain to seize objectives and just generally be a pain in the arse that your opponent has to commit a decent chunk of their army to getting rid of, which, whilst collapsing under a wave of Goblins, can be quite tricky! My guess is that small warbands is the way to go so that you have maximum choice in terms of what terrain you can spring out of and you don't commit too much on troops that hopefully won't be on the board for much of the game.

Army Bonus and Alliances

The army bonus for Goblin-town seems good at first, but as I wrote lists I often found that the way warbands fit in around common points values it was quite hard to take advantage of (with the exception of bumping The Goblin Scribe up from a Minor Hero to essentially a Hero of Fortitude). It's also quite good to take a few captains for having Might to burn so I don't think it's really essential and opens up the possibility of taking a yellow alliance without really caring about losing it (Goblin-town has no green alliances). In the end though I haven't come up with any alliances that I really like. The biggest strength of the army is by far it's ability to deploy a huge number of warrior models. By having to pay for a hero of valour from another army and whatever troops they want to bring you can really cut into your numbers and crucially bring down your break point. The low Courage of the army means they really can't afford to take too many break checks.

Lists:

500 pts

The Goblin King
24 Goblin Warriors

Grinnah
18 Goblin Warriors

The Goblin Scribe
12 Goblin Warriors

Goblin Captain
6 Goblin Warriors
1 Goblin Warrior w/ 2-Handed Axe

65 Models, 10 Might

This one is pretty simple. It's a massive amount of troops for 500 pts and more can come on with The Goblin Scribe's ability. Powerful list at the points level such as The Rangers of Ithilien will struggle to take enough of them off or deal with The Goblin King. It's given up some hero killing power by leaving Gollum behind, but the King should be good enough by himself at this points value.

800 pts

The Goblin King
18 Goblin Warriors

Grinnah
12 Goblin Warriors

Goblin Captain
12 Goblin Warriors

Goblin Captain
12 Goblin Warriors

Goblin Captain
12 Goblin Warriors

Goblin Mercenary Captain
4 Goblin Mercenaries

Gollum

Spider Queen
2 Mirkwood Spiders

80 Models, 20 Might

This gives up raw numbers to bring in one of the alliances that can best accompany the Goblin force. The Spider Queen and Mirkwood Spiders bring in a lot of mobility and some control. It's a list that still has good numbers, but also has a lot of flexible threats. It looks fun to get on the table and I shall definitely be giving it a go!

Wednesday, 24 June 2020

A Noob's Perspective - the Army of Dunland

This week, Dan Stu takes a look at the current hotness that is the Army of Dunland Legendary Legion from the recent Rohan at War book!

That’s right, it’s time for another Noob’s Perspective! With the ‘you-know-what’ still at large, the team here at Drawn Combat have had a lot of time to get through our painting piles, and just like Steve in his recent article, I’ve started to look at what’s next! As always – this is a Noob’s Perspective, so I’m going purely on the models’ profiles, having never seen this army on a table.



I’m not alone in eyeing up Dunland - ever since the Legendary Legion dropped, the army has exploded in popularity thanks to some beautiful sculpts, a well-designed and competitive rule set, and the fact that they’ve been a real underdog for a long time! Like many others I’m itching for Forge World to reopen so I can order those amazing new models!

For this article we’ll be looking exclusively at the Legendary Legion. The odds are that if you’re running Dunland these days, it will be in this legion. Not only is it really well designed, with every unit having a unique, important job – it’s also really powerful (at least in theory- but some recent tournament results seem to back this up too.)

I think my favourite thing about this Legendary Legion is how almost nothing treads on each other’s toes. Everything is varied, unique and useful – the Legendary Legions seem to be getting better with every release, and the team has really nailed it with this one. So that being said, let’s take a look at the Legion perks, and then dive straight in to the units!

The Army of Dunland

Death to the Forgoil!  - Hatred of Rohan has been included across the entire list. This is really great, and more than just a fluffy inclusion, for reasons we’ll see later!
Dunlending Pride – Dunlending Banners are now 6” instead of 3”, which almost quadruples their area of effect. For a largely Fight 3 army, this is a massive help.
Dunlending War Cry – for one turn, models within 12” of Thrydan roll to wound at a +1. Spicy! For an army that really doesn’t struggle for ways to amp up their killing power - as we’ll see -this ability could be devastating if timed correctly.

Army Quick Hits:
Race: Men
Strength: Base 4 for warriors, 3 for Wildmen
Defense: Base 4 for warriors, 3 for Wildmen
Fight: Base 3 for Warriors & Wildmen
Courage: Base 3 across the board
Kit: Lots of axes and access to 2 handed weapons. Limited access to spears.

Heroes



Thrydan Wolfsbane
He’s a mandatory hero in this list – but let’s be honest, you’d be taking him 99 percent of the time anyway. He has a solid profile for his cost – but it’s his toolbox that really makes him shine (this is going to be a recurring theme here!) The star of the show is Mighty Blow, which doubles his damage output when wounding. He has both a sword and a two-handed axe for flexibility, meaning that when he really wants to pile on the pain, he can call a two handed piercing strike – giving him a whopping Strength 6, +1 to wound, and double wounds. He’s also got the option to take a mount (unique among the Dunland heroes) – meaning that when the stars align, his potential damage output is crazy, even to high-defense models. He does only have 2 Attacks to make up for this, meaning that he’ll rely on getting the charge and being supported to be reach his full potential. 3 Might is very healthy, too, and will mostly be going towards his Heroic Strike addiction.

Absolutely amazing job on these sculpts. Well done, SBG team!

Gorulf Ironskin
The first of the new heroes is a really solid addition, as well as being an absolutely gorgeous model. 3 Attacks at Fight 5 is always going to be good. His best trick is his Ironskin ability, granting him a free Heroic Defense. I initially thought this was a bit of a trap and would just allow him to ‘lose more slowly’ – but combining with piercing strike is definitely the way to go, totally cancelling out the penalty that comes with the +1 Strength. All of a sudden you’ve got a Strength 6 monster that’s only being wounded on 6s, with 3 Might to swing fights his way – this guy punches above his weight in terms of grinding out duels. It’s tempered a little by his 2 Wounds and 1 Fate, meaning that even with Heroic Defense, he’s still only 1 bad roll away from death – but for 70 points this seems more than fair.

Frida Tallspear
I love this hero. One of the Legion’s main weaknesses is its lack of access to mounted heroes, which really opens you up to charges by mounted enemy heroes. Frida’s inclusion gives you a tool to mitigate that weakness – but only if you use her well. It’s pitch perfect design, and turns an army's blind spot in to an opportunity for engaging gameplay. Frida will cancel out the enemy charge bonuses of any fight that she is supporting, as well as giving all nearby troops rerolls to wound against mounts. She’s a spear support on steroids!

If you keep Frida mobile in your back ranks, all of a sudden you’ll almost want to lose the priority rolls just to bait your opponent in to wasting their big hero charge! Similarly, enemy mounted heroes will really have to think twice about when and where to charge if there is a chance that Frida will come and join the fight – an opportunistic charge could easily turn in to a Dunlending ambush, and without their charge bonuses, the larger cavalry bases can become a big liability. Frida gives tons of play and counter-play options to both sides, and might be my favourite new addition to the list.

Oops – we haven’t even got to her profile yet! She’s another really solid hitter, bringing yet another 3 Might. You’ll want to keep her mobile in the second rank, so she can mostly be thought of as a Fight 5, Strength 4 supporting Spear attack – nothing to sniff at. No Heroic Strike – but I’ll let her off.


The Wildman Oathmaker & Wildmen of Dunland
I’ve grouped these together, as it doesn’t make much sense to discuss them separately.

The Oathmaker is another iconic model, with great rules to match. At first glance, 3 Might (yes, another 3) and a decent combat profile for 55 points is an absolute bargain. He probably has the least use for his Might out of any of the heroes, with only Strength - I’d have loved to see March here, but alas. He’ll probably be your main man for Heroic Move a lot of the time – but this isn’t an easy decision either, as most of the time I think he’ll be run outside your main fighting force and in a blob of Wildmen of Dunland, to whom he gives a 6” fearless bubble – permanent Fury for free!

This turns your Wildmen in to a bit of a swiss army blob – especially if you mix in a few axes and 2h weapons to let them scare some bigger targets. At 5pts each (6 with a 2 handed axe), you can really throw them around – and at only Defense 3, your axes and two handers will be piercing striking often, especially if you’re up against Strength 4+ (I dropped from defense 3 to defense 1? Who cares, I was dead anyway!) They’re a great cheap horde that you won’t care about preserving all that much, and they can really blunt the fangs of some terror-causing lists. With Fight and Courage of 3, these are actually a really good counter to Dunharrow Ghosts, too – tying up a 14pt Ghost with a 5pt Wildman is a great trade (and a very frustrating one for the Ghost player!)

I think there’s also a good argument for including a Dunlending Warrior with Banner in this blob, too- cheap attacks en masse really enjoy banner effects – especially big juicy 6” ones.

Dunlending Chieftain
Expectedly, the only non-named hero is also now the least exciting. But he still has his place, with a good combat stat line and a scary Strength 5. In larger lists I think he’s worth taking just to have access to Heroic March. He comes with a 2-handed axe, but I think I’d trade this for the 1h axe and shield at no cost. This makes him the only Defense 6 model in the list alongside Frida - useful if you need to anchor a location down.

Warriors



Dunlending Warriors
Your bread-and-butter troop choice – but in typical Dunland fashion, you’ve still got plenty of versatility here. Strength 4 with an axe for Piercing Strike is great. Their Defense is average, maxing at 5 with a shield, so running axe and shield should be your default. Access to bows is good, and I think I’d usually include a few. Two-handed axes are slightly less convincing but still nice to have. These are also your source for the Dunland Super-Banners, which I’d always take two of in an average sized army – they really help with the Fight 3.

The Warrior profile lays the groundwork for a really solid Horde-type army. However, the Army of Dunland is not nearly that straightforward in its playstyle, thanks to our next troop choice…


Dunlending Huscarls
These are my second-favourite addition to the list. I’ve heard people say that these models are over-costed – but I couldn’t disagree more! The are expensive, sure - in a vacuum, 11 points for a Strength 4 Defense 5 spear support is a lot. But you’ve got to consider that these guys are your only non-hero access to Spears and Fight 4 in the whole army! 

But what I love about them is that they don’t give the Fight bonus consistently – it’s only when they’re within 3” of a hero. Want Frida to go and cancel out Aragorn’s charge? Or want Thrydan to go and mow down that vulnerable captain? Well, you’d better think about whether or not their sections of your line can cope without Fight 4 for a round or two! Huscarls hammer home the positioning-heavy theme of this army, and their high price point means that you have to be smart with them. Their high cost is an intrinsic part of their design. They aren’t intended as a replacement for your warriors!

Bodyguard as a counter to Terror, and the option to go two-handed axe also means that you also have the flexibility to put them on the front rank if the situation calls for it.

I think efficient positioning of Huscarls and Heroes will be this army’s biggest skill curve – and it’s a little sad that against Elves, this aspect goes out of the window, turning the army in to a more 2-dimensional horde list. But that’s a really minor nitpick.

Also, those models. Phwoar.


Dunlending Horsemen
Dunland’s only Cavalry aren’t amazing, but they’re not really supposed to be. Fight 3 on a Cavalry model is always a little painful, and they won’t be getting any Huscarl support either. But 12 points for a mounted model is a steal! (Also, I think it means that these guys are the only SBG models that cost more in pounds than points…If you can think of any others let us know!)

Still, cavalry with the potential to Piercing Strike up to Strength 5 can never be ignored – and while they won’t be forming the ‘hammer’ of your list, they still have their place. They certainly seem more suited to the counter-charge than the charge. I think their best home is on one of your flanks in a defensive / reactive position – they reroll 1s to wound against horses, which will make mounted enemy heroes think twice about swooping in. They could also serve as late game objective grabbers – but they are quite fragile, and might be fighting with our next choice for that role!


Crebain
Another new addition and they’ve knocked it out of the park yet again. While the models seems to be a little bit more divisive, the rules are great, and open up a ton of possibilities. Easy access to a durable, large base flying model means that you’ll always be on the lookout for potential traps, and your opponent will really have to work hard to prevent this. Of course, if you throw them behind enemy lines too soon they will be trapped themselves – so I think they’ll mostly be used to punish models that overextend.

They can also negate the Stalk Unseen special rule, which is probably situational at best.

But their other logical use is as objective grabbers. 12” of movement will see you flapping over to wherever you need to be - and when bows only hit you on a 6, 4 wounds means that you’re all but immune to ranged fire. And with 2 attacks, they even have a decent shot at taking over control of an objective if it’s only tagged by a single enemy warrior. Even if they can’t get the kill, it’ll take an enemy at least 4 turns to whittle you down, making them great objective deniers.


The List

OK! Now that we’ve got a feel for this insane toolbox full of axes, let’s see if we can put something together.

Thrydan Wolfsbane – Horse
7 Dunlending Warriors with axe and shield
1 Dunlending Warrior with banner
5 Dunlending Huscarls
2 Crebain

Frida Tallspear
3 Dunlending Warriors with axe and shield
2 Dunlending Warriors with bow
2 Dunlending Huscarls
3 Dunlending Horsemen
1 Crebain

Gorulf Ironskin
4 Dunlending Warriors with axe and shield
2 Dunlending Warriors with bow
2 Dunlending Huscarls
3 Dunlending Horsemen
1 Crebain

The Wild Man Oathmaker
1 Dunlending Warrior with banner
5 Wildmen of Dunland with sword
5 Wildmen of Dunland with axe
1 Wildman of Dunland with 2 handed axe

800pts, 54 models, 12 Might

Every unit type other than the Dunlending Chieftain is represented here – not because I was aiming for that, but because I think they all bring something important. I think that’s the sign of a really well designed army list! Looking at it, I would expect it to play somewhere between a horde and a standard battle line army, and the great thing is that you’ve got the flexibility to do either depending on the scenario.

I am a little torn on putting the second banner in with the Wildmen, and might switch it over to Frida’s warband. But in theory, Thrydan, Frida and Gorulf should all be fighting nearby, with a group of Wildmen on one flank, so hopefully 2 banners will cover almost everything. I’ll also have to see how the horsemen get on being split across 2 warbands – they might be better off deploying together. But I wanted to leave the most solid block of troops with the most Huscarl support to be in Thrydan’s warband, just in case of Contest of Champions – an early Dunlending War Cry with all of your best fighters in the centre of the board could be devastating!

It’s a very area-buff-heavy army, similar to the Fiefdoms (a comparison also made on the Green Dragon podcast!) But unlike the Fiefdoms, it’s very dynamic – you can't just keep everything in one blob that gets all the buffs all the time. You’ll be constantly assessing where each unit can provide the most benefit and balancing that against what the scenario requires. You can turn it in to a really efficient killing machine, but you have to work for it. You’ll want to keep Heroes and Huscarls distributed across the line, banners spread out, horses ready to pounce, Frida mobile, and hopefully everything centred around Thrydan ready for that War Cry!



A couple of things I haven’t covered in the profiles above are some of the main things I think this list will struggle against. The most obvious thing missing is a massive hero like Gil-Galad or Elessar- Dunland has great heroes but they cap at Fight 5, and you don’t really have a hero-seeking missile that you can fire-and-forget at your opponent. You’ll be really reliant on Heroic Strike (fortunately you have a lot of might to throw at it), and will probably struggle in the more hero-centric scenarios.
The other blind spot is ranged weaponry. With their archers maxing at Defense 4, you’re not likely to win any shootouts – the bows you do take should just be for opportunistic potshots. Skirmish armies could cause you a real headache. Fortunately against Rohan you’ve got Hatred to even the odds, but against other skirmish armies like Khand and (Valinor forbid) mounted Rivendell, you could have a really frustrating matchup on your hands.

Finally, you have no magic to speak of whatsoever. This is helped a tiny bit by the fact that you’re likely to have will points scattered across the entire army as your heroes will be spread out – so you could always score that lucky 6 to deny. However, the flip side to not having a single massive hero is that your list won’t be crippled if your opponent does score a Transfix or Paralyse.

These are really nicely designed weaknesses; none of them are outright blind spots, and all of them can be mitigated through smart play and using the tools available to you – hopefully making for an army that’s really fun to play, and to play against!

To wrap up, let’s just go over what I think the strengths and weaknesses will be when I get these beautiful models on the table to march on the Westfold:

Strengths
- Incredible damage potential
- Good numbers
- Flexible weaponry, lots of Piercing Strike
- Area buffs for smart positioning
- Lots of Might
- Lots of options against Terror

Weaknesses
- Fight value, especially against Elves
- Lack of an indestructible beatstick hero
- Low-ish defense
- Poor ranged ability and weakness to Skirmish armies
- Lack of mounted heroes – but Frida helps!
- No magic, and not much Will
- Limited access to Heroic March

So there it is! What did I get right or wrong, and what did I miss entirely? Let us know!

Tuesday, 23 June 2020

Awesome Allies: Serpent Horde and Corsairs of Umbar

Today Will begins a new series looking at lists based around allies! Let us know if there is a combination you would like to see in the future!


Will - So in this article we look at list building with The Serpent Horde and Corsairs of Umbar. These armies, for me, are the perfect tandem and give so many options it is unbelievable. Whilst looking at these two together for the last 3 months I have written so many lists in so many variations I have lost count. The Haradrim with their cavalry and shooting options, and the Corsairs with their power in combat and numbers. You even have options for my beloved magical evil characters. As soon as this lockdown is over this is the first army I will be putting on the table and will be looking at playing this at some of the events I have scheduled.
This article we will look at 3 very different ways to build your lists for maximum tabletop pleasure. I have tried, as usual, to give a different feel to each list as much as I can, and bring in many different elements from across the two armies. So, let’s dive straight in!



List 1:



Warband 1


Suladan on Armoured horse
5 Serpent Riders
4 Haradrim Raiders with Bow
1 Haradrim Raider with bow and warspear

Warband 2

Raza Fang of the Serpent
3 Abrakhan Guard
2 Watchers with twin Blades
5 Haradrim Warriors with spear

Warband 3
Delgamar Gate Master of Umbar
5 Corsairs with spear
5 Corsairs with Shield

Warband 4

Corsair Bosun with spear
5 Corsairs with Shield
4 Corsairs with Spear

Warband 5
Corsair Captain with Spear
5 Corsairs with Shield
4 Corsairs with Spear

800pts - 12 might - 48 models (5 bows)
Here you have a list with hitting power and weight in numbers. No need for banners as there are 3 organic ones on the table already.
On the Haradrim side, Suladan’s warband can split down the middle with one half as a skirmish force and one that can hit like a truck. Suladan is powerful as a leader and can do some of the hard-hitting work too.
Raza is a pretty solid choice at 75pts with his Bane of Kings and Serpent’s Weapon special rule, teamed up with the Abrakhan Guard and Watchers, this warband can go hero hunting if they wish and hack through pretty much anything. Just be aware though if they lose the fight it maybe ouchy time.
The Corsair portion of this list puts numbers on the table and all at that Fight 4 level. We have the Captain using the March to get up the table, the Bosun and Delgamar for rerolls, and all have those ever-important throwing weapons from a whopping 30 models. The sheer overwhelming number of these guys can seriously soften up a target and create gaps to start getting those traps working for you.
This list doesn't focus so much on the Serpent Horde shooting power but more on a couple of niche roles that the Corsairs can't cover. 


List 2


Warband 1
The Betrayer on horse
7 Watchers of Karna with Bow
7 Haradrim Warrior with Spear

Warband 2
Haradrim Chieftain with bow
6 Watchers with Bow
6 Warriors with spear

Warband 3
Delgamar
5 Corsairs with Shield
4 Corsairs with Spear

Warband 4
Corsair Bosun with spear
5 Reavers
4 Corsairs with Spear

Warband 5
Corsair Bosun with spear
5 Reavers
4 Corsairs with Spear

799 points - 8 might - 53 models (14 bows)
The Haradrim side of this list wants to keep shooting as much as possible, rerolling wounds and doing all the magic shenanigans possible until the Reavers can get to their target and cause havoc. The Betrayer can then continue to wreak havoc and put the magic where it needs to be. I realise having the Watchers with bows is slightly unconventional but with their Fight 4 they still can be strong in combat if it gets to that point. Having Fight 4 late game if it goes wrong isn't a bad idea and can save you the game.
The Corsair’s plan is to utilise Delgamar’s warband here as a meat shield and to open up gaps. The Reaver’s plan is simply hit hard, rip into the enemy, and hope you win enough fights to gain the advantage. Remember to keep your Bosun fairly safe though, otherwise it could turn ugly very quickly. I have tried to mitigate this by adding the spears and putting them in the back ranks of models.
You could always add more bows to this list by dropping a Bosun warband if you wish. I think the Betrayer will more than make up for it with his magic, however, and the sheer weight of numbers will be difficult for any enemy to deal with. I have also explored putting axes on Reavers and dropping 10 points elsewhere (maybe the Bosun spears). You may as well piercing strike if you do and hope for the best, if you lose the fight you are probably dying anyway so why not?



List 3


Warband 1
Suladan on Armoured horse with Bow
6 Serpent riders

Warband 2
Haradrim Chieftain on Horse
6 Serpent Riders
1 Haradrim Raider with Banner

Warband 3
Dalamyr Fleetmaster of Umbar
6 Black Numenoreans
6 Corsairs with Spear
4 Arbalesters

Warband 4
Black Numenorean Marshal on Horse with lance
5 Black Numenoreans
5 Corsairs with Spear
2 Arbalesters

800pts - 9 might - 41 models (7 bows)
So, as you can see from this list the model count is a lot less than the other 2 lists but the defence is a lot better. This is essentially as much of a tank list as you can make with the troop options across the armies, utilising the Black Numenoreans to get the troops into combat with good defence against other shooting armies. It has great stopping power with 6 crossbows and Fight 4 everywhere.
There are no tricks to this list, the idea here is just to smash into your enemy and rip them apart. Go direct or flank with your cavalry, either way just leave your finesse at the door and go charging in with muddy feet straight into your enemy’s living room.
 I have placed a banner in the Chieftain’s warband, but this wasn’t for him to make use of, this is for the Corsairs. It is definitely the least themey of all the lists and just takes what I believe to be certain strong elements at your disposal and mashing them together. At 41 models this is still a healthy number of troops and won't see you hitting your breakpoint for a while.
Summary:
 "NO MUMAKIL" I hear you all shout in unison as you realise I’m finished. Due to the ally rule there is simply not that much room for a tooled-up mumak, it's crew and a decent number of Corsairs that would make a difference in my opinion. Every list I wrote came out very subpar and I felt I was losing so much in comparison to what you see above. If you do find something by all means feel free to let us know, I’d be really interested to see what others can come up with. The lists above are not perfect and if you look at the amount on my Battlescribe that I have concocted you will clearly see how many unbelievable options there are, I could have literally written a novel (in fact I rewrote this article at least 3 times).
Anyway, I hope you like this new Ally series. We will be back with others in the future to feed your list building interests.